Dog Pup
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How to choose the best German Shepherd Dog pup in the litter
How to choose the best German Shepherd Dog puppy in the litter.
by Dennis Fisher.
If you are interested in getting a dog that will turn out to be a show winner and you have the opportunity of choosing the most promising animal from the entire litter, here are important points to look for.
It is of course not easy to choose the best pup in the litter because pups do change – sometimes quite dramatically. There have been occasions where the runt of the litter has turned out to be far better than his more promising littermates. But as a rule, when one has the opportunity of examining the entire litter at eight weeks, it is generally possible to choose the best – certainly the best pup at that stage of growth. Eight weeks is a probably the best time to make the choice.
After taking your time to examine all the pups in the litter carefully, make sure that the forelegs of the pup that takes your fancy are straight and sturdy. See that the pup has good bone which is indicated by thick “knuckle”. If it is a male you are looking for, size and masculinity is important. Although one must be aware that in recent years over-size in males is a problem that has become more common in the breed. It is a fault and is something to be guarded against.
The pup should have a good strong and clearly masculine head. This is also of importance because there is a tendency in recent years for heads in males to be finer and less noble than one would like.
The movement of the pup can be reasonably well assessed even at this tender age of eight weeks. The well-balanced pup will appear to move with more harmony and more easily than the others in the litter.
Look for a pup with a high wither. This is fairly easy to access, but try and make sure that the high wither is not at the expense of a good shoulder formation. This is rather difficult because excellent shoulder formation is not as common as one would wish. The high wither that is such an attractive feature of the modern Shepherd is one of the reasons for this. The shoulder should be well laid back with good length of upper arm. Even at this early it is possible to see whether or not the pup has a good shoulder. Of course a good shoulder is not merely an aesthetic requirement, it is essential for good forward reach and sound movement when the pup grows into a mature dog.
If you have to choose between a pup that is slightly long in body length and one that is somewhat shorter in body length, if other factors are equal, give preference to the slightly shorter pup. Sometimes body length is accompanied by weakness in back and will affect movement severely when the pup matures.
It goes without saying that you should have seen both parents before having to make a decision and have been aware of any deficiencies present in addition to virtues. Examine, if possible, other animals they have produced.
It will also be of great benefit if you have background knowledge of the bloodlines.
The pup should have strong hindquarters with broad thighs, long stifles and good hocks. The length of stifle is also easily recognizable at the age of eight weeks. But this will change. When you select a pup with a well angulated, long stifle, make a point of examining the away movement to see if the hocks are fairly firm. Once cannot expect hocks to be too firm at this early age, but you don't want a pup that has wobbly hocks.
The coat should be full but definitely not long. A long coat is a serious fault in the show ring. It is quite easy to detect a long coat in a pup because the pup show signs of a collie type coat and there will be tufts of fur coming from the ears.
Unless there are definite signs of color paling, which is a definite fault, color is not supposed to be of primary importance in the show ring. However, there is no doubt that a well-pigmented animal is always far more glamorous in the show ring and attracts more attention.
With regard to ears, this is usually a matter about which you need not concern yourself if both parents have good ear carriage. The ears do not become fully erect until the dogs finishes teething and six months, although many pups do get their ears up much earlier. But if the ears are very long and inclined to be thick there might be a danger of soft ears. Here again it is important to know the bloodlines of the parents.
If the pup has a good head, with a deep muzzle, not a long collie type head, the chances are good that the bite will be good and the pup will have the correct scissors bite when he matures. Many pups are over-shot when they are young, which means that the upper teeth protrude over the lower teeth. If this is only slight it is not very serious and this fault might be corrected as the pup matures. If however, it is marked there is a distinct danger that it might not change. A scissor bite is very important and if there is a definite gap of more than 2mm. between the upper and lower teeth the dog will be heavily penalized in the show ring.
What cannot be predicted with any degree of accuracy at this early stage, is whether the pup will grow up to have full dentition – a full complement of teeth. Quite often, when the pup matures and the teething process is over, the owner is very upset to find that an otherwise promising animal has a missing tooth. This may seem a very minor fault – and in a family pet it is certainly of no real consequence – but in the show ring it is viewed in a serious light as it is regarded as a genetic fault.
Even though the breeder is as anxious as you are to have your pup do well in the show ring, there is of course no guarantee that your pup is going to do well, as careful as you have been in your selection. Bear in mind that the showing of dogs, particularly German Shepherds, in the highly competitive environment that exists today, is very demanding and often very frustrating. Your dog may be a good specimen, but whether he becomes a show winner is entirely dependent on the quality of the competition!
If you do happen to win, enjoy your triumph with good grace. Entering Dog Shows should always be regarded as a sport. Be sportsmanlike. Sometimes you win. Sometimes you lose. If you do happen be beaten by what the Judge considers to be a superior animal, be a gracious loser.
Because the competition is so intense and the standard of dogs being exhibited is improving all the time, if you hope to do well at shows it is important to select a pup from the best show winning bloodlines. Visit the following website for a great deal of useful information about present-day top-winning Shepherds and famous German Shepherds of the past: http://www.freedogadvice.com
About the Author
Dennis Fisher has been interested in German Shepherd Dogs since chldhood and it has been his hobby for more than 40 years, as a breeder, show exhibitor, trainer and German Shepherd specialist judge. He has judged German Shepherds in many parts of the world.
For useful information about leading German Shepherd Dog bloodlines. both past and present, visit his website:http://www.freedogadvice.com
Should You Microchip Your Pet? Shared by Bullie Pups R Us
If you are worried about losing your pet, new technology allows for biologically safe microchips to use in the place of, or in addition to the classic dog tags. Microchips are an excellent option for a form of identification, and it is rapidly becoming popular in families throughout the country. Here are a few answers to common questions people might ask in relation to the use of these microchips.
What exactly is a microchip? A microchip is a small device that is comparable in size to a grain of rice. This device has a special identification number that helps animal shelters and local humane societies get in touch with the pet's owner.
How does this microchip work? As stated earlier, a microchip has a specific I.D. number, which allows shelters and humane societies get in touch with the pet's owner. The I.D. number is transmitted through an all-purpose handheld scanner, which relays the number to a computer screen. The handheld device transmits radio waves at a frequency of 125 kHz, which is completely safe and non-harmful to your pet. Depending on the brand of the microchip (the two most common brands are AVID and HomeAgain), the animal shelter or humane society will go to the registered microchip databases, and they will either contact you or the microchip company should your pet be found.
Where do they place this microchip? On cats and dogs, the microchip is placed in the fleshy part between the shoulder blades on their back. They cannot feel the microchip, and once it is in, it should give them no problems.
Could my pet have an allergic reaction to a microchip? It is highly unlikely. The microchip is made out of an outer shell of extremely tough glass, and has safe biological contents inside. Because of the way the chip is made, your pet will quickly develop connective tissue that keeps the chip in place.
How is the microchip inserted? The microchip is simply administered like a shot. Though the syringe may be slightly larger than that of a common vaccine shot, it will not hurt any more or any less. Your pet will not react any differently than they would if they were receiving a routine shot. Anesthesia is not necessary, nor is it recommended for this procedure.
What kind of animals can be microchipped? Almost any animal! The most common uses are dogs, cats, birds, horses (other livestock, such as pigs, sheep, or cows), and even fish! Many farmers or animal breeders microchip their animals as an easy form of identification; this takes the place of branding or tagging.
You never know when a natural disaster may befall your area. With hurricane Katrina and earthquakes, many animals have been misplaced and lost their homes. With the aid of a microchip, thousands of pets have been reunited with their loving families. Microchips are safe, beneficial, and the cost is definitely worth the security of knowing your pet has a chance of being found should they become lost.
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The right microchip can make life easier...for people and pets. We recommend the American 'Standard of Care' 125 kHz chip as the foundation of a successful program.
Confusion: The recent introduction of chips operating at various different radio frequencies has created quite a bit of confusion. Don't Worry! Although it seems impossible to sort out, it is really quite simple.
The facts: America has used the 125 kHz system for nearly 20 years. All scanners being used to scan pets today are designed to read the 125 kHz microchip. Additionally, the USDA Pet Microchip Report, states that 80% of these scanners read only the 125 kHz chip and not other frequencies.
Solution: Use only true 125 kHz microchips. All U.S. compliant scanners are designed to read 125 kHz chips. See chart below...
Microchip ID products 125 kHz
Avid Secure Encrypted 125 kHz
Travel Chip 125 kHz
Avid Euro 125 kHz
Destron Fearing 125 kHz
Home Again 125 kHz
Bayer ResQ Chip 134.2 kHz
Datamars 134.2 kHz
AKC Trovan 128 kHz
combined article Shared by Bullie Pups R Us bulliepupsrus.com
About the Author
I am a proud wife, mother of 6 and extreme bulldog finatic! I own Bullie Pups R Us http://www.bulliepupsrus.com/forsale.php. I like to network so people can get to know hwo Iam as a person. http://www.gather.com/my.jsp
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